Page 8 - Holyland Magazine - 2019 Edition
P. 8

3 Countries &
1 Volcano

Judging by the never-ending flow of people to Mount Bental,
you’d never know this mountaintop was anything but what it
is now – one of the most popular sites in the Golan Heights.

By Miriam Feinberg Vamosh

                                                                                                        Kibbutz Merom Golan and its adjacent
                                                                                                        reservoir, as seen from Mount Bental

Mount Bental, on the edge of an                    member of Kibbutz Merom Golan. Several               of his unsuspecting Syrian “friends” and their
           extinct volcanic crater in the Golan    of his whimsical creations dot the pathway           Soviet military allies. (Cohen was caught and
           Heights, was once a forbidding –        from the parking lot to the lookout. How             publicly executed in Damascus in 1965.)
           and to visitors, forbidden – Israel     de Yong manages to make a metal lizard
           Defense Forces outpost. But thanks      smile and a rusted metal-patchwork bat               The view to the east also reveals the United
to the calm that has prevailed in the Golan        wink and appear to jump for joy at the sight         Nations base that now monitors the ceasefire
for over three decades, the army acceded to        of the visitors is part of the charm of these        between Israel and Syria. In the 1973 Yom
the request of Kibbutz Merom Golan, located        sculptures. Originally from the Netherlands,         Kippur War, Israel was pushed back from the
at the foot of Mount Bental, and opened the        De Yong has a number of other sculptures             Quneitra line and then retook it, but during the
reinforced trenches, bunkers and foxholes          on view elsewhere in the Golan Heights.              subsequent ceasefire talks brokered by then
of this outpost to curious visitors. You can                                                            US Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, gave
now explore the nooks and niches leading           From the heights of Mount Bental, 3,495 feet         up the town in the interest of peace. However
to the command room, bunks and kitchen             above sea level, fruit trees and vineyards blanket   Israel made it clear it would not come down
deep underground. It’s a fun and exciting          the dark, rich volcanic soil right up to the Syrian  from Mount Bental and the other volcanic
way to learn about the area’s military history,    border. During spring and summer, several            peaks that now form the ceasefire line, which
especially since it is about as far from a         orchards offer “pick-your-own” experiences           is why visitors today can stand here looking
frontal lecture as you can get.                    so you can take away the fun of working              deep into Syria. You can also see “new
                                                   outdoors along with your boxes of cherries,          Quneitra” – a city stretching into the distance
It is so peaceful here that the site’s designers   plums, nectarines and other fruit.                   beyond the old town, and considered by
decided people need a reminder of just how                                                              many to be a stake in future peaceful relations
small Israel really is. That comes in the form of  But back to the lookout, there is more to            between the two countries.
a signpost, giving the distances from this point   see. Across the border is the Syrian city of
to Jerusalem, Washington and Damascus,             Quneitra, which until 1967 was not only home         To the right (south) rises another of these
among other significant destinations.              to members of the Slavic Circassian minority         peaks, Mount Avital, bristling with antennas
                                                   who settled there in the 19th century, but also      that belong to Israel’s security “eyes,”
The sign is not the site’s only attempt at         the location of the Syrian army’s nerve center.      and beyond that, the country’s only wind
irony. There is also iron collected from           You can even see the Syrian high command             turbines, located on Mount Asania. These 10
military scrap found in the battlefields of the    headquarters, where Israeli master spy Eli           turbines produce clean energy for over 4,000
area. These were transformed into a series         Cohen, deep undercover in Syria for years,           households, thanks to the windswept heights
of sculptures created by Joop de Yong, a           was the only civilian ever to visit, as the guest    on which they are located.

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